By K&P 
Quiet and dark, in the village in the distance you can usually see lights but not today. No cars, no music, any sounds of civilization. A few hours earlier a sunny hot day and exceptionally distinct birdsongs, the sounds of the jungle more resonant against the background of this civilization silence. After dark only the sound of wind and rain falling on the large leaves of the surrounding forest. No internet, there is electricity but no one uses it. Dark villages and streets give you the shivers, it is a good background for reflection in silence, solitude and silence. Time for a short spiritual balance of the past year to enter 1947 with a clear head. Young people hide under roofs, sit in silence invisible to lost souls and demons wandering in the sky on New Year’s Day and staring at their victims. A moment of inattention and they will come drawn by the noise or light. The elderly feel that it is not that easy, because they wander in their thoughts.
No moon in the sky, “Saka” calendar with clearly marked red color “new moon” and new year with new lunar cycle. Black March New Year’s night, first lunar cycle after spring equinox which closes 46” and opens 47’. Two calendars are in force, but it is the traditional one that evokes emotions and determines holidays.
Yesterday, you could see the outlines of people standing out against the weak light bulbs, you can meet them here every evening. The outline of a bamboo or wicker skeleton slowly begins to resemble a figure. Skin made of material or paper, more and more details. New elements with each evening, a ladder becomes necessary. Claws and twisted limbs as if in cramps or possession, frozen during an attack, a headless demonic figure looks terrifying in the weak evening light. Long shadows extend far beyond the roof of the banjar, the outline of figures focused on the next elements, finally on the head and details. A demon with a tongue as long as a snake’s, has settled in the body of an old wrinkled witch, her thin long fingers and claws clenched around the neck of a young child. Gray matted hair hangs almost to the waist but does not cover the sagging breasts and hunched back.
Rhythmic sounds from brass cymbals and drums carry over long distances. No one is surprised by the loud music of instruments or the sounds of laughter during breaks. Weekly rehearsals are becoming daily. Banjars come alive after dark and quiet down late in the evening, but before that you can hear loud conversations and final arrangements, laughter and discussions, the characteristic roar of scooters driving off in different directions with a bang.
Beautiful, tight, floor-length dresses seemingly unsuitable for dancing. They look as if their legs were tied with patterned sarongs, they take small, subtle steps, placing their bare feet precisely. Fluid and at the same time dynamic movement of the hips, circles made with the hands creating subtle rounded shapes in the air. Attention is drawn to the hands, fingers straightened to the limit and tense as if to hypnotize the audience. Gestures and facial expressions build slight anxiety, dance is more like art when this innocent figure seduces with a black innocent gaze, but intrigue and deception hang in the air.
The last morning of 1946, Ogoh Ogoh is already waiting in front of the banjar, covered with canvas as befits a work of art. The creators are proudly preparing a bamboo platform for its transport. The noise in the village and on the streets is greater than usual and this is just the beginning, you can feel and see the excitement before the evening parade. The marches with large scarecrows to the performance venues begin, you can see that it takes a lot of effort. Everyone arrives, large pickups with a band, local residents, dancers will probably arrive in the evening.
After dark, the impatient audience sitting by the roads starts chanting and grimacing a bit, bored with waiting. Finally, the parade starts, music, light show, dance and large demons forming the background for the performances. Young, dressed up and beautiful-looking girls gracefully carry a banner with the name of Banjar. The audience is already warmed up after the first performances. Another and another, now 17 on a plate barely visible in the light of the lantern. In the background, you can see the demonic figure of the devil, brutally ordering himself to be solemnly carried on this large bamboo platform. The slaves carry him in sweat, making rhythmic sounds, walking delicately from left to right to the rhythm of the drums, with an even, measured step according to the order of their master. The smoke and the weak red light match this black ruler. The audience falls silent, the cheers fade away, the street trees along with the tangled webs of cables on the poles create a distinctive setting and a sense of realism. In front of the lord of evil and darkness, the slave girls dance, lined up in two equal rows, carrying torches to light the way. They dance chaotically, fidgeting nervously as if possessed, tossing their matted, tousled long hair. The gamelan plays exactly to the rhythm of these chaotic dances. One maiden begins her dance in short flashes of consciousness. It doesn’t take long, the shape of horns and claws becomes visible from behind, a large shadow cast on the white canvas, now they are dancing step by step…
Nyepi is one of the most important holidays in Balinese Hinduism, celebrated loudly and on a grand scale. Preparations last several months, from the idea through planning and implementation. Large abominations called Ogoh Ogoh are only part of the whole arrangement. Music and choreography are added, the whole story is told during a short spectacle. This requires many musical and dance rehearsals. Work on these unique monuments is carried out in the evenings and weekends, young people meet in banjars, and create under these spreading shelters until late hours, working and having fun at the same time In dim light they realize their concepts and ideas.
Ogoh ogoh, often large 2-3 meters, symbolize demons and evil powers. They are made of light materials, often have surprisingly real hair that enhances the impression of horror. They are light enough to be transported and shaken dynamically during the parade. They give viewers shivers down their spines and a sense of fear. Old hideous witches with tongues like snakes, tempting the young and grabbing them by the throat, piercing their hearts with long claws. Disgusting devils, werewolves, rats and trolls, giant mutants with muscles, bottles of alcohol in the hands of their victims. The symbolism is wide and the form is very diverse. They are united by attention to detail, skillful rendering of dynamics in these static sculptures, ugliness, the impression of fear and disgust. In dim light and smoke, with torches and local “gamelan” music, they make a terrifying impression and force even the most ignorant to think. Ogoh ogoh play the main role, but the Oscar belongs to the supporting actors. It is the plot, acting, dance and music that give depth and make it a feast for all generations.
Individual banjars present their representation, you can see that it is a kind of competition but also an opportunity to create local bonds and relationships. The young are particularly involved and eager to get involved, they have the opportunity to sneak out of the house, spending time with friends, hitting on girlfriends, smoking, and sometimes they don’t even hide it, sometimes they boost their emotions by drinking tuak.
The parade on the last day of the calendar year Sake is a spectacular celebration of noise, but it is only an introduction to a more important holiday. Nyepi – a day of silence and contemplation, solitude, reflection. On New Year’s Day, the entire island freezes in silence and stillness, starting from 6 a.m. after the parade until 6 a.m. the next day. Offices, airports, ferries, street traffic and even the internet are suspended for 24 hours. There is a ban on leaving the house and making noise. You should not turn on lights or light fire, it is best to refrain from talking, and certainly not talking loudly. This is a time devoted to reflection and usually everyone knows what they should think about, 24 hours is enough for something to dawn even on empty heads, there are certainly those who like it. A moment of reflection is not an original idea of Balinese Hinduism, in Christianity there are periods of silence and fasting, in Buddhism meditation is the order of the day, Muslims fast throughout Ramadan every day from dawn to dusk. In Bali however, the silence is the most spectacular, after a day of noise, parades and excitement there is complete silence, undisturbed by anything during the day and during the darkest night of the year.