By K&P 
A steep, rocky small island with barely visible wooden steps leading to a temple at its peak. In the bay beside it, there are many small, beautiful local boats with bamboo outriggers on both sides, attached to curved wooden arms that, from a distance, resemble water spiders. Further out, you can see Nusa Ceningan and, possibly, another island, Lembongan, but from a kilometer away, they merge into one. Crystal Bay is quite popular, easily accessible, and ordinary—commercialized. Despite the interesting views, it’s a bit boring.
The sand is white but unimpressive, with plenty of sunbeds and umbrellas, and drinks available. In the evening, pretty lights illuminate the beach. It’s a comfortable place to spend a day lounging and sipping alcoholic or fruit-based drinks, free from unnecessary excitement. Standard chill is available here, with access practically right to the sunbed by car or scooter. It’s about a 40-minute drive from the center of Penida, near the main port in the north and slightly to the east, where most restaurants, hotels, and shops are located.
The beach may appeal to some you can stay until late as it’s lit and doesn’t empty out after dark. Nearby, there are plenty of small, modest restaurants—not fancy, not at all. But it feels a bit dull, somewhat commercialized. It might feel more interesting after a drink. Hotels are nearby, so you can stay overnight. For a beach party, it’s perfect—no one will be surprised by a group of slightly tipsy, loud tourists.
At the southern end, fragments of steps are visible, hanging a meter above the beach—the lower part seemingly washed away by the waves. You can climb them, but not everyone will decide to take that step. The stairs are steep and lead to a hill covered in fairly dry vegetation and trees. Climbing the missing first meter is a fitting introduction to the uphill journey ahead. It’s about 20 minutes of steep ascent, followed by a relatively flat section at the top, lasting around 200 meters, and then a steep descent. The flat section resembles Greek landscapes, with stone walls forming terraces for cultivation—but here, nothing is being cultivated. There are no olive trees, but the rest feels very Greek. Monkeys can be hard to spot you might only notice them after hearing the rustle of branches bending. They aren’t spoiled like those in touristy spots and don’t approach people.
The descent is arguably harder—it’s slippery. It’s not an impossible task, but you need to be careful and in decent physical shape. At the bottom, a fishing net is strung between the trees, and there’s a small hut where they likely sell coconuts. To the left, there’s a ravine to the right, the Greek-style path ends, giving way to an Indonesian landscape. In the distance, you can see the same Nusa Ceningan merged with Lembongan that was visible from Crystal Bay, flanked by hills covered in vegetation.
The waves are large, the water a light green, the sand white, and the sound of waves constant. There are no sunbeds and few tourists—those you see are typically the more athletic types seeking adventure. Perhaps it’s the endorphins from climbing the hill, or maybe it truly is that beautiful—the light green water certainly stands out. The waves are powerful, making it difficult to enter the water during high tide.
This beach has a wild character, with the raw power of the ocean, the breeze, and the sound of waves replacing the noise of tourists, clinking glasses of drinks, and the scents of local restaurants. It feels wild, with only the sight of Lembongan/Ceningan in the not-so-distant horizon breaking the illusion of a remote, wild paradise on an island surrounded by the ocean.
Both beaches are unique in their own ways—it depends on what you prefer or what mood you’re in. I’d recommend climbing those steps at the start of the path and not giving up.
The beach isn’t very wide, maybe 100 meters, but it stretches deep inland. After about 80 meters, it ends with trees, grass, and coconut palms. The ravine leads deeper into Penida and is quite long. It’s a place where you can unwind and feel connected to nature. Without a water supply, though, it might be hard to fully enjoy the experience—you might only be able to buy a coconut if you’re lucky and one of the locals is still at the thatched hut. Pandan Beach is beautiful and wild, not crowded, and requires courage to enter the water and decent swimming skills. It’s relatively easy to access for such natural beauty and a wild atmosphere.
At the southern end of the beach, there’s a hill forming the bay along with the one on the opposite side. A steep, rarely-used path begins there. After climbing about 40 meters, large boulders appear, showing signs that people pass through here occasionally. It might be an entrance to a viewpoint on the hill or a way to the next beach, but it’s not a journey for flip-flops—maybe next time.
This is already my second visit to Pandan Beach. The first time, I was more impressed this time, it still made an impact, but less so. Perhaps it was the fatigue from the ferry from Padang Bai, the search for accommodation, or the heat with a perceived temperature of 55 degrees Celsius—or maybe it was because of the overweight guy lying in the middle of the beach—how did he even get here? Third time’s the charm next time, I’ll check where the path leads. I bet it goes to the next beach—it doesn’t seem far, and on the map, it looks similar, though smaller. That one is probably completely empty.
Crystal Beach and Pandan Beach are at two opposite ends of the spectrum in terms of style. They’re two different worlds, separated by a 20-minute trek through the jungle. That’s their charm—you can spend a wild, active morning soaking in salty water while battling the waves, then enjoy a calm evening with a beer, watching the sunset over Lembongan and the small island with the steps to the temple.