Bias Tugel beach, Padang Bai, west Bali

A colorful umbrella, white sand, turquoise water, and a blue sky—straw ones would be nicer, but there aren’t any here. Under the next umbrella, snow-white tourists sip coconuts through straws while reading something. Nearby, heavily tattooed girls stand out unmistakably, inked from head to toe—they’ve gone all in and have plenty of character. A bit further down, a group of muscular guys flex their biceps in the sun, sipping beer. Even further, a guy is doing push-ups beside his lounge chair.

The line of umbrellas stretches across the entire beach, about 150 meters long. At the far end, there’s a small patch of sand, a bit too cramped to spread out beach towels. This beach is ideal for those who prefer lounging on sunbeds under colorful umbrellas.

Every few minutes, a head pops up from the water to catch a breath—it must take some impressive lung capacity. The sight draws plenty of attention from beachgoers. This beach is a frequent spot for turtles, and today a large one has appeared. It leisurely grazes on the reef without any hurry. Though the underwater scenery isn’t particularly stunning, the presence of turtles more than makes up for it.

The beach is located near the port of Padang Bai, on its western side, just a five-minute scooter ride away. The last stretch is particularly interesting: on either side of the narrow road, there’s a wall several meters high, likely reinforcing the earth. From the parking area, you walk through this artificially created ravine for another 100 meters. On the left, there’s a charming, rusty, small metal door, and beyond that, a narrow path winds up a slight hill. Through the trees, you can glimpse the ocean as the trail runs alongside a rocky cliff. A few uneven steps lead down to a side entrance that opens directly onto the beach. Its central area is lined with basic local eateries where you can have lunch, order drinks, or both.

Continuing along the row of colorful umbrellas, each section is managed by a different attendant or “persuader.” They all come out to greet you, offering increasingly tempting deals to rent their coveted spots for the rest of the beautiful sunny day. They’re pleasantly persistent and a bit exhausting but always cheerful and smiling.

The water here is fantastic—clear with a lovely turquoise hue. There are big waves, but they’re not bothersome. The sandy bottom is free of rocks, making it easy to stand and swim comfortably. Unfortunately, access isn’t free—the only available spots are the sunbeds under the colorful umbrellas. Straw umbrellas would be better, though.

Turtles love this place, which makes it special—and that, in turn, attracts tourists. You can snorkel alongside them, which is quite an experience. Majestically and unhurriedly, they swim at shallow depths. Their colorful shells shimmer in the sunlight, and they look like they’re flying, flapping their small flipper-like wings. It’s a unique sight and sensation. That alone is reason enough to visit this place. And, well, the colorful umbrellas aren’t bad either.

By K&P

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